Não é de hoje que vejo muita besteira pelas rochas e montanhas por aí afora… Longe de me achar a prova de falhas, mas nestes quase 20 anos de montanha talvez eu tenha ganhado um tornozelo torcido e um joelho ralado. E isso se chama CAUTELA, RESPEITO à montanha e busca constante por INFORMACÃO. Cautela + respeito + informação: definitivamente este é o tripé para uma escalada segura. Claro que um pouco de sorte também ajuda! Na contra mão temos: Quanto mais moleque, menos cautela. Quanto mais fácil o acesso ou perfil “esportivo” das vias, menos respeito à montanha. Até por quê muitas paredes esportivas nem em ambiente de montanha estão. E por último, a falta de informação… Esse é o maior perigo! Aiiiii que medo dessa via!!! rs rs rs Quantas vezes não presenciei amigos levando amigos, que levam amigos, para experimentar a escalada. Nada contra querer mostrar para seu melhor amigo o esporte que você ama, mas há restrições! Se você tem experiência e conhecimentos necessários para se responsabilizar pela segurança: sua e dele, já é um bom começo. Mas mais do que isso, você deve fazer tudo por seu amigo: cheque todo o equipamento dele, passe você a corda na cadeirinha, confira o nó. Leve-o numa área segura, de preferência com base plana numa via fácil e em top rope. Para um escalador de primeira viagem não fará a menor diferença uma via fácil num campo escola, ou a headwall do Fitz Roy, o desafio e o medo estarão presentes de qualquer forma. Não assuste seu amigo! Concertar uma primeira má impressão será bem mais difícil! Outro dia ao chegar na parada da Normal do Baú (4a) encontrei um “escalador” esperando ali encolhidinho de canto, auto-seguro passado em um dos grampos, posição imóvel, mal respirava e com cara de assombração, aguardava “ordens” do seu amigo lá de cima! Aqueles olhinhos esbugalhados me olhando e quase que suplicando… “me salva por favor”. Aí perguntei, “tudo bem?”. Annhannnn… Meu amigo, o Fulano de Tal, disse pra eu esperar aqui até que ele grite. Agora vem a pior parte, o Fulano de Tal, que já estava na última parada e sem contato visual conosco, grita… “pode soltar!!!”. E o coitado em pânico, responde… “soltar o quêeeee?!!!”. Claro que a essa altura dos acontecimentos, por razões óbvias e já com calafrios, começei a ajudar. – Aqui, olha só, você solta esse mosquetão do auto-seguro e pode subir conforme ele estica a sua corda tá? Nunca solte a sua corda que está amarrada na cadeirinha, entendeu? Alguns segundos de tensão e após meia hora encolhido em posição semi fetal, o pobre cobaia apenas me faz um sinal com a cabeça e sem abrir a boca segue rumo ao encontro do seu “amigo”. Felizmente tudo acaba bem! Ufa… Esse foi só um exemplo de situações potencialmente perigosas. Claro, muito provavelmente nada aconteceria. Quem em sã consciência soltaria a corda da cadeirinha ao invés do mosquetão do alto seguro? É justamente aí que mora o perigo, quando pensamos em sã consciência, não levamos em consideração a situação de estresse de um novato a 300 metros de altura, do medo, do pânico que ele pode estar sentindo e que para nós, montanhistas experientes, nem nos damos conta de como aquele ambiente vertical pode alterar drasticamente o raciocínio das pessoas. Uma coisa é certa, independentemente do tipo de escalada, todas elas são pra cima, e as vezes muito! E não importa, 5 ou 10 metros de altura são o suficiente para que aconteça um acidente muito grave, para não dizer o pior. Como diz o velho ditado, “tudo o que sobe, tem que descer”, e só cabe a nós buscar a informação de como subir e principalmente descer em segurança. Cabe a nós respeitar o perigo inerente aos esportes verticais, respeitar as limitações de cada um, e principalmente nunca expor o seu “amigo” a situações de risco desnecessárias. Mostre a escalada para seu amigo num ambiente seguro, fácil, de preferência onde você possa montar um top rope a partir de uma base confortável e segura, e que depois de completada a escalada você possa descê-lo de “baldinho” até o chão. Nunca ponha um novato para fazer rapel!!! É isso mesmo, no rapel que “shit happens”. A movimentação, o desafio e a novidade serão os mesmos a 15 ou 300 metros do chão! Uma escalada divertida e sem traumas, irá deixá-lo com gostinho de quero mais. A experiência deu certo, o cara curtiu? Aí é só indicar um bom curso, ou encaminha-lo a um clube ou instituição competente… Não seja você o “amigo da onça”. Boas escaladas, Alê Silva. Fonte: link
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