8h trilha Havíamos marcado Eu, Jerônimo e Eny, às 6h da manhã na saida do tunel de São Francisco para Icaraí. Mais à frente, encontramos com os Mineiros, amigos meus, que també iriam ao Dedo de Deus, para fazer a Leste juntamente com o Jerônimo e a Eny. Como os Mineiros não haviam comido nada, fomos para uma padaria perto da entrada da Ponte Rio x Niterói e o Jerônimo seguiu com a Eny, para não haver demora na trilha. Logo matamos nossa fome e fomos para o Dedo de Deus, chegamos no Paraiso da Serra e às 8h em pontos entramos na trilha. Os mineiros, não acostumados com trilhas tão íngremes como a do Dedo, fizeram várias paradas rápidas durante a trilha, e às 8h40m chegamos à base dos cabos de aço, na Cuíca. 8h40m cabo (cuica) Na base dos cabos de aço, encontramos la a Eny já arrumada dando seg pro Jerônimo que estava chegando à P1 dos cabos. Comecei a me arrumar, mochila nas costas, combinei com os mineiros de eles subirem junto com eles, para não haver problema na hora de achar a trilha para a base da Leste e disse que iria encontrá-los todos no cume. Não houve problemas, comecei a subir, e depois de 20 minutos já estava no colo entre a Leste e o polegar. 9h base dedo de deus Ali na na base da Leste dei uns 10 minutos de descanso, para tirar o peso da trilha que caía sobre mim. Coloquei a mochila nas costas com corda, água, comida e os outros equipamentos dentro e comecei a subir. Solei os lances iniciais sem fazer paradas, subindo continuamente até a base da Maria Cebola. Lá descansei por 10 minutos, tomei uma água, tirei a corda da mochila e logo estava escalando fazendo auto-segurança até a próxima chaminé, onde lá guardei todo o equipamento, ferragens e corda. Não esperei muito e logo comecei a escalar, incomodado apenas pelo peso da mochila, pendurada por uma fita no loop do meu boudrier. Passei o lance do pulo, peguei outra chaminé, fiz o lance de trepa-pedra do final e subi a escada da Teixeira, chegando ao cume exatamente às 10h20m, quando larguei meus equipos e escrevi meu depoimento no livro de cume, pela primeira vez, sozinho no cume do Dedo de Deus. 10h20m cume do dedo de deus Depois de escrever no livro de cume, encostei nas pedras próximas à urna do livro, e ali fiquei por um bom tempo comigo mesmo, curtindo sozinho o visual naquele cume maravilhoso, aproveitando todo aquele silêncio de Deus! estava um dia perfeito, conseguia ver até o Alto Mourão em Niterói… Comi metade do meu sanduiche de queijo minas com tomate e alface e alguns goles na minha fresca água, carregada numa garrafa pet de 2L. Havia bebido pouca água até então, sobrando pouco mais de um litro. A uma hora já sozinho no cume, comecei a ver umas nuvens estranhas chegando por trás da verruga, o que me deixou preocupado, não comigo, mas com os meus amigos que estavam subindo. Como eu havia posto créditos extras no meu celular, algo raro de se acontecer, mandei uma mensagem de texto os mineiros para saber onde eles estavam. Aí veio uma resposta deles, dizendo que não sabiam onde estavam, apenas que estavam em frente à placa da via Face Oculta. Telefonei para eles, para avisar que estavam já quase na base da Teixeira. Eles ultrapassaram o Jerônimo e a Eny nos cabos de aço, e passaram direto pela trilha que vai para a Leste. Botei pilha para eles entrarem na Teixeira, mas me disseram que o começo dela estava muito molhado. Pedi para que me esperassem onde estavam, pois ia rapelar pela Teixeira e encontraria com eles na base. Quando estava quase começando a rapelar, recebi o telefonema da Eny, dizendo que ela e o Jerônimo haviam desistido da subida, por um problema no estômago dela. 12h rapel pela teixeira No cume pensei: bom, estou sozinho, não farei o rapel pela descida vertiginosa do Santa Cruz, pois se minha corda agarrar, não terei como escalar devolta para soltá-la. Fiz o rapel pela Teixeira mesmo, o primeiro rapel foi sem problemas. Me preparei para fazer o segundo rapel, em direção ao segundo platô desta mesma via. milimetricamente cheguei ao platô, me ancorei e comecei a puxar a corda, quando senti que a corda havia saido do grampo, comecei a puxá-la mais rápido para que não embolasse e prendesse na fenda que havia próximo de onde eu estava ancorado. 12h20m a corda agarrou na fenda A corda veio vindo tranquilamente, quando estava chegando quase ao fim do trabalho, aconteceu o pior: a corda agarrou! Pensei comigo mesmo: fica tranquilo, é normal isso, devo escalar a Teixeira devolta e soltar minhar corda. Foi o que fiz, comecei a escalar num entalamento de meio corpo, bem chato, acho eu que era a chaminé arranca botões, um lance bem enjoado mesmo! quando já estava bem no final, onde eu teria que sair dela num lance de oposição e sem nenhuma proteção, percebi que a parede neste trecho estava bem úmida. Respirei, inflei o peito e fiquei ali entalado descansando e falando pra mim: PQP, agora eu to fudido! lembrei que na minha mochila havia um friend (.4) da Camp Italy, desescalei a chaminé peguei o friend e voltei, descobri que o maldito friend não era meu amigo, não cabia ali naquele trecho. Desci novamente até o platô e telefonei pro Jerônimo, falei pra ele o que havia acontecido e pedi para que ele ficasse ligado, pois se eu não conseguisse fazer mais nada, ele teria que subir para me resgatar, pois os mineiros, não conheciam aquela área e seria pior se eles se perdessem por ali, seria outro problema. Vi um pedaço de pedra no chão e a quebrei, lascando-a, como faziam antigamente nossos ancestrais, suas ferramentas de corte. Olhei a corda, já estava quase para cortá-la, quando o Jerônimo me telefonou devolta, querendo saber como estava a situação. Eu disse à ele que iria cortar a corda, quando veio em minha mente a idéia de medir a corda que me restava, dando 25 braçadas (x 1,70m), que deu algo em torno de 40m. Falei pro Jerônimo que ia fixar a corda e jogar o restante la pra baixo e tentar chegar à base. Se isso acontecesse, eu estaria salvo, e telefonaria para ele devolta, liberando-o do plantão. Quando ia jogar a corda, os mineiros apareceram na base, sem nada entender da minha demora. Expliquei rapidamente à eles o que havia acontecido e lancei a corda, recebendo a resposta deles, de que a corda havia chegado, faltando apenas 1 metro para encostar no chão, o que aconteceria com o meu peso sobre a corda. UFA! Cheguei a solo firme! Peguei o único papel que tinha (um maço vazio de Marlboro) e dentro de uma caixinha de cadeado que os mineiros tinham, deixei o bilhete com todos os meus dados, que com um esparadrapo prendi na ponta da corda, para que quem resgatasse a corda, me devolvesse a mesma (para não ter que cortá-la). Começamos a descer por volta das 14h. Chegamos ao Paraiso da Serra (uma parada para os viajantes da Rio x Teresópolis) por volta das 16h20m, onde lá encontramos com o Jerônimo, que, claro, aproveitou o momento para me dar uma zoada básica. Fomos para o restaurante, onde lá bebemos um café bem quente e puro para recurar os ânimos. Pensei na minha corda, mas não estava triste, por incrivel que pareça, pois estava ali bebendo um café quente, vivo, com meus amigos, pessoas que gosto muito e que dividem comigo a alegria de estar na montanha! Por Leo Nobre Porto Presidente do Clube Niteroiense de Montanhismo
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